PSA (At the risk of upsetting some people)

[Eschaton]

A piece of advice from someone who is a professional numismatist, has worked at the highest levels of the coin industry for the industry’s biggest players, and has well over 100 VAM discoveries and revisions. I say this not to ruffle feathers or boast, but since that definitely is relevant to what I’m about to say:

When looking at coins to attribute, use a high-end 10X loupe. Otherwise you will be consumed with minutia and features that are noteworthy under a microscope but not eye-visible therefore largely unlistable.

A microscope set up can be useful for sharing photos of what you’re seeing, but initial investigations for variety attribution should always take place with the 10X loupe.

Hobbyist should consider something like a BelOMO 10X 21mm, which is by far the best loupe for the price - whereas those in the industry full-time should consider something more suitable for full-time use, such as a Swiss Axe Triplet Hawk (unless they don’t mind getting a stigmatism sooner rather than later).

Hope this helps, happy VAM hunting

[johnhenry9009]

It hurts to hear, Because I know that I personally have been using my microscope to look for VAMs instead of using a 10x loop. Thank you for posting, it shines a new light on my opinion.

[RogerRock]

A piece of advice from someone who is a professional numismatist, has worked at the highest levels of the coin industry for the industry’s biggest players, and has well over 100 VAM discoveries and revisions. I say this not to ruffle feathers or boast, but since that definitely is relevant to what I’m about to say:

When looking at coins to attribute, use a high-end 10X loupe. Otherwise you will be consumed with minutia and features that are noteworthy under a microscope but not eye-visible therefore largely unlistable.

A microscope set up can be useful for sharing photos of what you’re seeing, but initial investigations for variety attribution should always take place with the 10X loupe.

Hobbyist should consider something like a BelOMO 10X 21mm, which is by far the best loupe for the price - whereas those in the industry full-time should consider something more suitable for full-time use, such as a Swiss Axe Triplet Hawk (unless they don’t mind getting a stigmatism sooner rather than later).

Hope this helps, happy VAM hunting

GOOD ADVICE! My loupe is a BeIOMO 10X 21mm.

[morganman]

A loupe is a pain in ass- thats why i never enjoyed coin shows much as using my microscope has proven
to see much more with my 10x power with optional 20X lenses
My amscope was cheap & very suitable- compared to a damm loupe but loupes used because portable
but still tough. I would take my scope to shops and coin shows set up and walla. Especially when gettin blinder
the loup sucks while i can see great with 10x scope All IMHO

[DHalladay]

I have a Belmo 10x.
But I much prefer my Eschenbach 12x.

[LateDateMorganGuy]

While always a good reminder, this advice has been around for as long as I remember. It is still at the top of the very top of the "Guidelines for Die Varieties" page.

http://ec2-13-58-222-16.us-east-2.compu ... _Varieties

[UNCLE BINGO]

Only problem I have with it is I can't take a picture through my 10x loupe

[Malachi35]

Only problem I have with it is I can't take a picture through my 10x loupe

Haha

[chgolaw1]

I have been using a Eschenbach 12X as well. I have been using a loupe since the beginning. It has always been the most trustworthy piece of my equipment. I do use a scope as well, but not initially.

[Albannach]

I wear 10x readers at shows, hardly even need the Zeiss, unless I'm looking at something that I need to verify a secondary for and that is rare.

To Uncle bingo's point, Leroy took plate shots at 30x, to show the marker details, so I don't really even understand the logic to this post.

If were complaining about "little things" please stop drawing circles and lines and arrows, most of us don't need them and they are a distraction.

[iwillbenice]

If you can pull a hair from your but you have calibrated eye balls up to.003.
So what give with loupe at xx magnification?

[UNCLE BINGO]

I wear 10x readers at shows, hardly even need the Zeiss, unless I'm looking at something that I need to verify a secondary for and that is rare.

To Uncle bingo's point, Leroy took plate shots at 30x, to show the marker details, so I don't really even understand the logic to this post.

If were complaining about "little things" please stop drawing circles and lines and arrows, most of us don't need them and they are a distraction.

So honest question here , can you see everything needed with just a 10x loupe ???what about the scribbles on the 21's?what about that little tiny die marker in the hair curl or the ear or that metal in the 2's??? ???? I bought a scope with not very high magnification to keep me honest , I get what the OP's is saying so not to get lost in the details of the Macro world , but maybe you need both for somethings ..

[DarksideVAM]

Only problem I have with it is I can't take a picture through my 10x loupe

You're not winking hard enough to trigger the flash.

[UNCLE BINGO]

Only problem I have with it is I can't take a picture through my 10x loupe

You're not winking hard enough to trigger the flash.

[keilg1]

Been waiting to hear the thoughts/musings of others before responding. Oh, and I was deep in the heart of the Colorado Rocky Mountains with more space than cell signal the past few weeks...

This IS a tough topic because I find many posts (mine included...) are focused on details - necessary markers to fully differentiate a die (or die pair) from others, yet always running the risk of micro-Vamming.

I've found a few posts so hyperfocused on what I'd consider minutiae that I skip right by them - often to my own detriment because when I go back and reread it/them with an open mindset, I find I learn something (even if it is that I was correct about the minutiae).

Yet, and was mentioned, there are way too many a variety that depends on the littlest scratch or chip or... so dealing with the minutiae is a natural extension of the process...

The best advice I've received from many of you is start broad - little magnification needed to get a date placement, a mint mark placement, etc., then progressing to MAJOR descriptors like gouges, clashes, etc., and only THEN looking for the specks... if needed...

[LateDateMorganGuy]

It seems a lot of new comers miss the basics of date placement and mint mark placement as a first start for attribution. That being said, understanding the qualitative nature of the listings in this regard is harder to get your arms around. Line drawers generally mislead themselves and others. Does anyone think Leroy actually took a photo of each of the nearly 4000 VAM date placements and drew a line to determine the date placement? I know, it is in the Encyclopedia, but it cannot be relied upon.

After determining the date and mint mark placement, then and only then can one go to the die poop markers. Keep in mind that die poop can change for several reasons, die wear, die stage, die state, polishing, tooling, clashing, etc. Leroy only had one coin to look at at a time, so he did not know how die poop would change. Die studies are the only way to determine this, the die poop that survives all die states/stages.

There is a lot to learn about this hobby and it takes time and determination. My suggestion is to only collect coins that have MAJOR markers and attribute them first. Then if you stick with this hobby, move onto the die poop coins. I have seen many avid VAMmers leave the hobby over 20 years because of the lack of "B&W" between listings, let alone what is in a listing.

[chgolaw1]

I think that about sums it up!!!!!